One of the World's Most Beautiful Train Rides

Ask any traveler who's visited Sri Lanka about their most memorable experience, and chances are the train journey to Ella will be high on their list. This isn't just transportation—it's one of the highlights of the entire trip. The railway line from Kandy through Nuwara Eliya to Ella winds through some of the most spectacular scenery on the planet, passing endless tea plantations that blanket the hillsides in emerald green, misty mountain peaks that disappear into clouds, thundering waterfalls cascading down cliffs, and tiny villages clinging to steep slopes.

Built by the British in the late 1800s to transport tea from the hill country plantations to Colombo, this engineering marvel climbs from sea level to over 1,800 meters, navigating dramatic terrain with numerous bridges, viaducts, and tunnels. The journey is slow—typically taking 6-7 hours from Kandy to Ella—but that's precisely the point. This isn't about speed; it's about savoring every moment as the landscape unfolds outside your window like a living painting. Passengers hang out of open doorways (safely), cameras constantly clicking, smiles plastered on faces, as the train chugs through what feels like a dream sequence too beautiful to be real.

Route Options: Which Journey to Take?

While the full Kandy to Ella journey is spectacular, the most scenic section is generally considered to be from Nuwara Eliya (or nearby Nanu Oya station) to Ella. This 2.5-3 hour segment packs in the most dramatic mountain scenery, tea plantation vistas, and iconic viewpoints. Many travelers opt for this shorter route, especially if time is limited, as it captures the essence of the hill country experience without the full-day commitment.

The complete Kandy to Ella journey takes 6-7 hours and offers a gradual transition from the mid-elevation city through progressively higher tea country. You'll witness the landscape transforming—tropical vegetation giving way to pine forests, then tea plantations, passing through Nuwara Eliya's cool climate zone before descending slightly into Ella. It's a longer day but incredibly rewarding, especially if you enjoy train travel and want to maximize your time soaking in the scenery while others rush by car.

Some travelers also do the journey in reverse—Ella to Kandy—which offers identical scenery from different angles. Morning departures from Ella provide beautiful light for photography, though you'll have the sun in your face heading west. The advantage of going Ella to Kandy is that Ella station is smaller and less chaotic, potentially making it easier to board and find seats, though the disadvantage is ending in Kandy rather than the charming hill village of Ella, which most consider the more appealing destination.

How to Book Train Tickets

Sri Lanka Railways offers three main classes: first class (observation cars with reserved seats and large windows), second class (reserved or unreserved seating), and third class (unreserved bench seating). For the scenic journey, first class observation cars or second class reserved are highly recommended as they guarantee seats and offer the best views. Third class can be extremely crowded, making it difficult to access windows or doorways for photos and views, though it's significantly cheaper and offers an authentic local experience.

Tickets can be booked up to 30 days in advance through the official Sri Lanka Railways website, though the booking system can be challenging for foreigners due to payment processing limitations and technical issues. Many travelers book through local agents or their hotels, which simplifies the process and ensures confirmed seats, though a small service fee applies. During peak tourist season (December to March), trains sell out weeks in advance, so booking early is essential if you want reserved seating in the observation cars.

If you miss out on reserved tickets, don't despair—second class unreserved and third class tickets can be purchased at the station on the day of travel. Arrive very early (at least 30-60 minutes before departure) to queue for these tickets, then board quickly when the train arrives to secure a good spot near windows or doorways. While less comfortable than reserved seating, many travelers report that unreserved journeys can be more social and authentic, with locals sharing food, stories, and companionship during the long ride.

Best Seats and Photography Tips

For the Kandy to Ella journey (traveling east), seats on the right side of the train generally offer better views of the valleys and tea plantations, especially approaching Ella. However, both sides have spectacular scenery, and the train curves so much that you'll see incredible vistas regardless of which side you're on. The observation car at the back of the train provides the absolute best experience with large windows and seats facing outward for unobstructed views.

The real magic happens at the doorways. Sri Lankan trains run with doors open (no air conditioning in most classes), allowing passengers to safely stand in doorways with the wind in their faces and unobstructed 180-degree views. This is where you'll see everyone congregating with cameras, hanging halfway out as tea plantations rush past just meters away. It's thrilling, photogenic, and perfectly safe if you hold on properly—locals do it constantly and will help position you for the best shots.

Photography enthusiasts should bring fast memory cards and extra batteries as you'll be shooting constantly. The light changes dramatically as clouds roll through the mountains, creating magical moments when sun breaks through mist to illuminate tea pickers or waterfalls. The sections between Nanu Oya and Pattipola, and again between Haputale and Ella, are particularly photogenic. Consider bringing a small lens cloth as moisture from mist and train spray can fog your lens. Most importantly, don't spend the entire journey glued to your camera—take time to simply sit, breathe, and absorb the experience with your own eyes.

Train Schedules and Timings

Multiple trains run daily between Kandy and Ella, though not all are suitable for tourists seeking the scenic experience. The most popular trains are the day services with observation cars: typically departing Kandy around 8:30am and 11:00am, arriving Ella late afternoon or evening. The morning departure offers the best light for photography in the early sections, while clouds often roll in by afternoon adding drama to the landscape. Check current schedules on the Sri Lanka Railways website as times change seasonally.

From Nanu Oya (for Nuwara Eliya), trains to Ella depart several times daily, with the journey taking approximately 2.5-3 hours. The most popular departure is around 12:30pm, positioning you in Ella by mid-afternoon with time to settle into accommodation before dinner. This shorter journey concentrates the best scenery into a manageable timeframe, perfect for those who find 7 hours on a train excessive or want to spend more time exploring destinations rather than in transit.

Be prepared for delays—Sri Lankan trains rarely run exactly on schedule. Delays of 30-60 minutes are common, with longer delays possible due to track maintenance, mechanical issues, or other trains. Build buffer time into your itinerary and don't schedule onward travel (buses, tours, etc.) with tight connections immediately after train arrival. The relaxed pace is part of the experience—embrace the slower rhythm and enjoy the journey rather than stressing about precise timings.

What to Expect During the Journey

The train journey is an experience in itself beyond just the scenery. You'll share the carriage with a mix of tourists and locals—office workers, school children, tea plantation workers heading home, Buddhist monks in saffron robes, and families traveling together. The social atmosphere is warm and friendly, with locals often curious about visitors and happy to chat, share food, or point out notable landmarks passing outside. Children wave from trackside homes as the train passes, and tea pickers in the plantations pause to smile and wave at the cameras pointing their way.

Food and drink vendors board at major stations, weaving through carriages selling everything from fresh fruit and vadai (savory snacks) to tea and soft drinks. The prices are very reasonable and the food is generally good—it's a nice way to sample local snacks while contributing to the informal economy of vendors who rely on train passengers. You'll also encounter occasional ticket inspectors checking tickets, though they're usually quite relaxed with tourists who may have boarding confusion.

The train makes numerous stops at small stations along the way—some scheduled, some seemingly random. These stops range from brief 2-minute pauses to longer 10-15 minute breaks at major junctions. Use longer stops to stretch your legs on the platform, use facilities, or buy snacks from platform vendors. The station buildings themselves are often beautiful colonial-era structures with colorful flower gardens, worth exploring quickly if time permits. Just keep an eye on the train and ask locals about departure time to avoid getting left behind.